PIGMENT ZERO RENOVATION CREAM – NIGHT CREAM WITH HEXYRESORCINOL & AHA FOR PIGMENTED SKIN

TCELL Journal - Scientific knowledge about skin

PIGMENT ZERO RENOVATION CREAM – KEM DƯỠNG ĐÊM VỚI HEXYRESORCINOL & AHA CHO DA SẠM NÁM

MartiDerm Pigment Zero DSP Renovation Cream is a night cream containing 1% Hexylresorcinol and 10% AHA that helps brighten the skin, reduce dark spots, and support the maintenance of results following Hydroquinone treatment; specifically designed for skin dealing with pigmentation issues. The formula features a complex of chemical exfoliating acids and melanin-inhibiting active ingredients, effectively eliminating pigmented spots, evening out skin tone, brightening complexion, and preventing the return of brown spots. It is an essential product in the skincare and treatment routine of the iconic Pigment Zero line from MartiDerm.

 

INGREDIENT DETAILS & BENEFITS

The Pigment Zero Renovation Cream—a night cream for treating dark spots and skin regeneration—is considered an effective solution for skin suffering from pigmentation issues, suitable for maintenance after treating dark spots with Hydroquinone. In just one night cream, it provides three benefits for the skin: safe fading of dark spots; prevention of spot spreading; and skin regeneration and rejuvenation.

The formula has been improved with outstanding ingredients for optimal skin efficacy, including:

- 1% Hexylresorcinol (a Resorcinol derivative): Hexylresorcinol is an advanced active ingredient with many superior benefits for the skin, most notably its ability to fade brown spots by acting on four pathways of pigmentation formation: (1) Inhibiting tyrosinase enzymes, (2) Inhibiting peroxidase enzymes, (3) Reducing DNA damage – a mechanism that causes increased melanin, and (4) Increasing the ability to synthesize glutathione. Learn more about Hexylresorcinol in this article.

 

In addition, Hexylresorcinol also possesses skin anti-aging capabilities:

  • Provides antioxidant protection by stimulating glutathione synthesis, protecting the skin from free radical attacks.
  • Inhibits and controls skin inflammation, limiting recurrence that leads to chronic inflammation.
  • Prevents the glycation process, maintains firm skin texture, and limits sagging and wrinkles.

- 2% Phytic acid: An active ingredient for treating pigmentation and providing antioxidant protection. Phytic Acid acts in two stages: (1) Fighting free radical formation and inflammatory reactions, thereby reducing melanin formation; (2) Inhibiting the Tyrosinase enzyme.

- 4% Bellis perennis: An extract from the Daisy flower containing polyphenols with strong tyrosinase-inhibiting abilities, helping to prevent melanin production naturally, thereby reducing the appearance of brown spots and promoting bright, even-toned skin. Furthermore, Daisy extract contains high levels of acids like Malic Acid and Tartaric Acid, which possess exfoliating properties and support the natural skin cell turnover process.

- 4% Genistein (natural ingredient): Acts as an antioxidant, reducing lipid peroxidation and eliminating free radicals; it promotes collagen production, helping the skin stay healthy, elastic, and reducing the appearance of wrinkles.

- 10% Alpha Hydroxy Acids (Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Citric Acid): A blend of acids that exfoliate, gently removing the layer of dead, dull cells on the skin's surface, thus brightening the complexion, improving dullness, and stimulating the regeneration of new skin cells.

AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) is a water-soluble acid found in fruits, plants, and milk sugar. They are water-soluble and absorb water very quickly. Thanks to their safety on the skin and ability to stimulate Collagen and Elastin production, cosmetics containing AHA are well-suited for addressing skin issues such as: exfoliating, anti-aging, brightening, and preventing acne.

(Source: Alamy.com)

The 10% AHA in DSP Renovation is derived from 5 types of plants:

  • Glycolic Acid (derived from sugarcane)
  • Citric Acid (naturally derived from citrus fruits)
  • Lactic Acid (derived from sugar and milk)
  • Malic Acid (derived from fruits like pears and apples)
  • Tartaric Acid (derived from grapes)

The different AHAs in the product offer various benefits:

+ Exfoliation

AHA is a popular chemical exfoliant. As mentioned above, AHA is water-soluble, making it easy to act on the skin surface and regenerate the topmost epidermis. This ingredient is recommended for dry, dull, or aging skin, helping to reduce fine lines, treat hidden acne, improve rough skin texture, and maintain long-lasting smoothness and hydration.


For effective exfoliation, at-home topical AHA is typically used at a concentration of 10% with a pH between 3-4. Chemical exfoliants are acidic, making the skin sensitive to sunlight. You should use it in the evening and use a cleanser the next morning to fully remove the dead cells pushed to the surface during sleep.

+ Promoting bright, smooth skin

Most products containing AHA have the function of rapidly softening the skin. This is because the stratum corneum on the epidermal surface is cleared and new cell regeneration is promoted, resulting in brighter and healthier skin. For this reason, experts often encourage clients with dark, dry, and dull skin to use AHA regularly.

+ Supporting dark spot treatment

Similar to the brightening mechanism, AHA cleanses the skin surface and controls excess melanin production, making it effective in helping reduce melasma, freckles, and dark spots. When used alongside other pigmentation-treating actives, AHA also helps those ingredients penetrate and function better, enhancing their treatment efficacy.


+ Supporting acne treatment

It is no surprise that by exfoliating, AHA also plays a role in eliminating acne. Thanks to Glycolic Acid, which is highly rated for rapidly improving acne-prone skin, you can absolutely use AHA-containing products when suffering from acne, provided the concentration is appropriate.

For dry or sensitive skin that does not react well to BHA, AHA is also a suitable alternative method to effectively support the acne treatment process.

+ Preventing the aging process

AHA contributes significantly to preventing signs of aging, minimizing wrinkles, and enhancing firmness by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin—the two "proteins" that determine skin elasticity. Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid, and Glycolic Acid are types of AHA that act very effectively to minimize early signs of aging and prevent the formation of skin aging.

+ Restoring sun damage

Frequent sun exposure can cause serious skin damage such as hyperpigmentation (appearance of dark spots), dull skin, and wrinkles. Using AHA can minimize the effects of the sun on the skin, prevent pigmentation issues early on, and help protect the skin perfectly.

 

>>> SUGGESTED SKINCARE ROUTINE

Treatment effectiveness will be increased when used in combination with other products from the Pigment Zero line:

  • Suggested morning routine:

+ Ampoule DSP Bright: The "star" of the Pigment Zero line, specifically recommended by doctors for brown spots and melasma. The formula contains the exclusive MartiDerm DSP-TX complex (Hexylresorcinol, Tranexamic Acid, Bellis Perennis L., Phytic Acid), Genistein, 5% Vitamin C Tech, and Lactokine™ Fluid PF (milk protein). It helps treat and prevent dark spots, brightens, evens skin tone, and is particularly useful as a substitute and maintenance treatment following Hydroquinone therapy.

+ DSP Serum Illuminator: The only product in the Pigment Zero line suitable for pregnant women. The formula contains Genistein, Hexylresorcinol, wild daisy extract, and Sodium Phytate to brighten, fade dark spots, even skin tone, and add radiance. Suitable for mild pigmentation issues.

+ Daytime cream DSP Cream SPF50+: A daytime treatment cream formulated with advanced active ingredients capable of eliminating pigmented spots and protecting the skin from sun damage effectively. It is an ideal choice for treating pigmentation during the day. The formula contains the MELA TSFK complex (1.8% Tranexamic Acid, 1.5% Salicylic Acid, 4% Kojic Acid, 0.5% Ferulic Acid), Niacinamide, Vitamin C, and sun filters with an SPF50+ index. In addition to brightening, treating melasma, and preventing new spots, it protects the skin from the sun and environmental influences.

  • Suggested evening routine:

Ampoule DSP Bright and/or Serum DSP Illuminator, similar to the morning routine. However, it is accompanied by the night cream DSP Renovation Cream.

Using DSP Bright in combination with the night cream enhances efficacy, as DSP Renovation helps exfoliate the surface, supporting product penetration, and adding treatment power to boost results. Additionally, using the night cream ensures the skin remains healthy after melasma treatment, as it is regenerated, renewed, and the skin texture is rejuvenated.

Additionally, 2-3 days/week, you can use the DSP Mask—an exfoliating, whitening mask containing high concentrations of natural brightening ingredients such as Kojic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Arbutin, Ellagic Acid, Vitamin C, and Licorice extract. Because the mask contains high concentrations of active ingredients, it may cause stinging for some skin types; it should be used at a low frequency and mainly focused on areas requiring pigmentation treatment.

PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE REVIEW

  1. Texture: The DSP Renovation night cream has a milky, thin, and easily absorbed consistency, providing sufficient moisture and a comfortable feel on the skin.
  2. Usage efficacy

The night cream is a product that supports the treatment of dark spots well. Using it with the Pigment Zero set reduces dark spots by up to 75%, especially repairing sun-induced damage such as red, dark skin, leaving it more radiant and brighter. Skin is brightened and pigmentation is treated safely without causing irritation, erosion, or increased sensitivity.

Besides adjusting skin pigmentation, with the 10% AHA in the product, using the night cream after 1 month helps improve the surface and texture, leaving skin plump, elastic, and rejuvenated. However, cream containing 10% AHA can easily make the skin more sensitive to the sun, so it is recommended to use the brightening & sunscreen DSP Cream SPF 50 during the day.

It can be said that DSP Renovation Cream is a product that provides a "double boost," not only for DSP Bright but for the entire melasma treatment routine with MartiDerm's Pigment Zero line, helping the skin to be both treated and nourished, perfecting the beauty of the skin. Harper's Bazaar magazine readers have also rated the day-night DSP cream duo as an effective and worthwhile solution for minimizing brown spots.